The Artifact Goes Abroad

Calomina! Today I learned that Greek people say “calomina” to one another on the first of each month. It means “Have a happy month!”

Today was truly an amazing day in Athens. I knew that going to the Acropolis and seeing the Parthenon up close would be incredible, but I didn’t expect to be so inspired and moved by the experience. After teaching and learning about this place for so many years, actually getting to see the Temple of Nike, the Erechtheon, and the Parthenon up close was extraordinary…plus, I had a fabulous guide who told me so many things I didn’t know.

Let’s start here…

In ancient times, when you went to the Acropolis, you would travel on the Panathenaic Way. This is what it looked like today. Can you see the Acropolis in the distance? That’s where I was headed!

This main roadway would take you up the hillside and to the grand entrance of the Acropolis called the Propylaia. Passing through the Propylaia is something special. The columns and large gateway are very grand, and I definitely felt I was entering a sacred space as I walked beneath them. As you enter, the huge columns seem to narrow so that your focus goes directly to the giant temple ahead – you guessed it, that’s the Parthenon! Take a look at these photos I took when walking in the Propylaia.

In the pictures, you can see that the marble pieces look a bit yellow. This is due to time, weather, and pollution. Originally, the stone was bright white, and under the sun it would have sparkled majestically. You can also see that some parts of the temple have been restored with new marble. These white pieces remind us of the original splendor of the temple when it was newly constructed in white marble – even the gods would have been impressed!

Originally, there were 12 temples on top of the Acropolis, but because of many invasions, battles, and changes in leadership, some have been damaged or even completely destroyed. It is important to know that many statues originally found on the Acropolis have been removed in order to preserve them. They are located in the Acropolis Museum, so they can be safe and stay in good condition.

Here is what the Acropolis and its temples originally looked like. Look at the giant statue of Athena dressed in full armor. Any intruder approaching by sea would have been able to see this symbol of Athenian power – likely, they would turn their boat around and go straight back where they came from!

On my way to the Propelai, I got a good view of the temple of Nike (Athena’s close companion and the goddess of victory). Here it is:

After the impressive entrance at the Propylaia, we walked ahead to see the Parthenon! Even though the temple has been through a lot – it has been site of a gunpowder explosion, it was looted by Lord Elgin, at one point it was even turned into a church and then a monastery – it’s hard to find the words to describe how impressive it is.

Something I learned that I didn’t know before is that inside the Parthenon, there are walls that make up an interior room. At the top of one wall, I could see the remains of a frieze showing a great parade of Athenian people. This frieze is almost totally hidden from sight when you look at the temple from the outside. Are you wondering why? My guide told me it was so that the gods would not feel displeased with the mortals. After all, mere mortals should not celebrate themselves by carving sculptures on such a sacred monument! Take a look!

All of the sculptures that were part of the original friezes (inside and outside of the Parthenon) and also built into the pediment have been removed. As you likely remember, many of them were taken by a man named Lord Elgin and sold to the British Museum in London. The rest remain in Greece and are on display in the Acropolis Museum. My guide was very passionate about this subject and like many other Greeks would like to see the sculptures returned so that they can be shown all together in the city where they were made.

Here are some of the Parthenon sculptures I saw in the museum:

Last stop on the Acropolis tour was the Erechtheum – the temple with the caryatids! It is absolutely beautiful (and something I’ve always wanted to see in person).

But…guess what? The caryatids you see in the picture above are replicas (which I never knew)! I had to enter the Acropolis Museum to see the real ones. They have been removed to safeguard against the elements. In fact, when brought to the museum, they needed a lot of restoration work before they could be displayed!

Well, that’s it for today! Tomorrow I head to the Greek Agora!

Love, Mrs. Babcock